Sunday, March 29, 2015

THE EYE HAS TO TRAVEL

when i was younger, i traveled for the novelty, to check off boxes, to do the tourist circuit, but also to experience the unfamiliar. to be different. and i traveled in a rush – making the most out of the geographic proximity to new places while living in europe, the convenience of cheap flights and triviality of where i stayed adding to he impulse.

now, it's the joy in the creature comforts and the indulgence of mostly hunkering down and hibernating in small boutique hotels with day trips and slow, drawn out meals. the research i do beforehand is only to find one perfect hotel, and a few perfect restaurants; everything else is more fun to absorb while there. in swedish, one does not "stay" in a hotel, rather one "lives" there, which used to be irritating in translation, but really quite applies at this stage. are swedes more enlightened travelers?

i travel now to eat – literally, tasting all of the food until i am ill (bad habit), but also, devouring local aesthetics like a buffet.

three places i have traveled to have had profound aesthetic impact on me, all within the past year, in order of occurrance:

1. Mallorca, where i gleaned that calm follows in the marriage of white and beige linen; that beige, and all of its relatives between it and grey, is not boring but instead serene; and i guessed (correctly) that beige would be my "gateway drug" to brown – my prior aversion now completely dismantled.

you may recall mr. big in sex and the city describing his relationship with natasha: "everything in my apartment is beige. beige is bullshit." except, i get natasha now.

in Mallorca we stayed at the Predi Son Jaumell.

2. Santorini, where the delight of the-brighter-the-better oversaturated color blocking against the white and blue is both ancient and timelessly chic.

in Santorini we stayed at the Grace.

3. Marrakech, where the intoxicating cocktail of moped petrol fumes, the particular type of light filtered by the maze of the city's architecture and its dusty terracotta and stone construction (strangely not dissimilar to the beautiful smog-created light in l.a.), the almost rococo devotion to its adornment and dizziness and wonder of the painted tiles with colors that seem both impossible and delicious, all culminate for me in a love of print, suede and metals worn all at once.

"marrakech taught me color" – yves saint laurent

here, we stayed at El Fenn.

the curious thing was – el fenn so beautifully exemplified the seemingly incongruent design concept of mid-century modern with moroccan/berber tradition. and now having seen the magic of that juxtaposition, it is ALL I WANT.

the hotel has several instances of stained glass, which are of course dazzling in light:



shortly after we booked el fenn, i saw these valentino shoes and short-circuited from the prospect of wearing them near that stained glass:



and so for weeks before traveling to the "red city", my mind raced with inspiration, seeing everything through moroccan rose-colored glasses. i felt compelled to make a fantasy morocco shopping list.

following, more valentino in this dress:

pucci:
of course, missoni:
and a few small but necessary accessories –

dolce & gabbana:
yves saint laurent: 

and miu miu:
in the end, these miu miu sandals did make their way from wishlist to reality:

i really felt so much at home with the color and vibrancy of the environment (despite that i wear head to toe black most days) and since, i have subsided in cold, windy, rainy stockholm on those visions. 

everybody travels for different reasons, but for me in huge part it is to reside in those visions, for as long as i can. and for some, that doesn't require going anywhere at all. 

so i end with these:

"the eye has to travel" – diana vreeland

"it's much more inspiring not to go places than to go."

"backstage after the paris-bombay show, a reporter questioned his decision to take inspiration from an india that exists in an imaginary past, rather than visit the real india. 'i'm against reality,' he replied."  – karl lagerfeld (both quotes after the arts et metiers/pre-fall 2012 collection)

x

Friday, January 30, 2015

THE GREAT CLARIFIER

"red is the great clarifier; bright and revealing." – diana vreeland

chanel

christian dior

ceci n'est pas un fashion blog – collection reviews should be left to professional critics, or poets, in the cases of tim blanks and nicole phelps (all hail). but here and there i hope to entertain with some of my reflections on the subject.

it's fascinating when creative peers land on similar ground while running in parallel. how does it happen – what is in the air that inspires shared references and on such a specific level? even if conceptually it began for spring 2015 couture as distant as "the future", their flight paths saw them leaping and bounding towards their destination with assured clarity of vision – bright and revealing.

lagerfeld and simons' illuminations unfold in harmonious saturation of color, amped up, waxy and thick  as a spread for toast. and though florals for spring is no contemporary invention, and though their renditions are mesmerizing and lusciously cheerful, i can't help but take home that their spring of the however distant future is one where nature is no longer wild but a fabricated environment controlled by remote, colonies of industrially manufactured blooms sprouting where directed.

christian dior

chanel

maybe it's the plasticity of the elements, in recreating the serene poppy fields of a monet painting or the insistent excess (or confined decadence) of the story woven into these garments that renders their vision of the future so wall-e-like. either way you have to agree that there is no going back to any kind of simpler time, and ideals of beauty will evolve too. 

i won't mind that future, as long as i can stomp my way through it in those damn red boots.

xn

Wednesday, September 24, 2014

KIDS

love the vibe of this story on style.com, which can't help but remind me of larry clark's "kids". and middle school. even of a boyfriend i had back then, called larry. these are new, but is it always 1990-something in the new york skater scene?

anyway, browsing through the zara trf floor today i saw essentially this outfit with a more high fashion-"inspired" approach, and despite my maybe irrational opposition, i'm feeling like it's more borg ("resistance is futile") than boring at this point. or??

trends: when they remind you of an earlier you it's at first a bit funny... and then urgently inviting of sartorial reruns (random need for reconnection with freer times? – dramatic), until ultimately, an amusing afterthought. 

i'm already on the sneakers train. one baby step at a time.


more on 90's finds to follow

x

Wednesday, September 10, 2014

LUXE NORMCORE 2.0

we have been deep in the normcore trenches with the omnipresent [cĂ©line] birks... and the [cashmere] sweats... and now we've entered a new phase (upwards or downwards, you decide) wherein the New Lazyman advances its front line claws to the realm of the previously unmentionable, dare i even type it, BEAN BAG. 

in argentinean sheepskin, naturally. 

pure rugs offers this luxe option for those who feel that the originals go against their morals!


x

Tuesday, September 9, 2014

TANGERINE TANGO '12, FOR '15

pantone named this shock of a color their color of the year for 2012.

in their words:

"[the] spirited reddish orange...continues to provide the energy boost we need to recharge and move forward.

a fun, lively take on a traditional autumnal hue, Tangerine Tango will surely carry through to fall fashion as well.

a winner in cosmetics because of its versatility, Tangerine Tango is a bit exotic, but in a very friendly, non-threatening way. add a sultry flair to lips, cheeks and nails with Tangerine Tango. an unexpected eye shadow color, Tangerine Tango is a complementary opposite that flatters blue or green eyes. When paired with brown eyes, it brings out an amber cast."

(i LOVE color theory)

i noticed quite a bit of the TT in stockholm last year... lots of the blinding color in tees and nails especially. now it's reappearing on the streets of new york during spring/summer 2015 fashion week (captured below by tommy ton for style.com):




i find it mostly offensive and painful to look at, but that under eye streak is mesmerizing. it's so strong it yells at you. it's war paint. 

energetic? yes. in small doses, like the streak – powerful surprise. 

any larger ... turn it down.

what are your thoughts on the TT?

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

LAURENCE DACADE AND HEEL THEORY

laurence dacade designs shoes for chanel, which i found out years after finding and loving her own eponymous line. though it does explain a lot. no other minds but hers and karl lagerfeld's can put humor in fashion but never cross the point of no return line, where it becomes more about making statements and loses focus on the fashion part, the chic. i'd extend the line of humor to sex as well with them; nothing ever, ever crosses the line into vulgarity. not that that doesn't have it's place, that can be fun and freeing. but for me it doesn't fit for the every day. now in my "older age"... what matters is what fashion can do for me. no more (ok, maybe just fewer) impulse/novelty buys, much more "but does this dress actually flatter" and "does it create the right silhouette". more on that for a future post.

those last two considerations, however, i have found are commonly french, including additionally the timeless "if it doesn't fit, it is a disaster". all of these revelations can be applied to laurence dacade's shoes (generally, and in her own line). which brings me to a fourth tenet in heel theory: if you cannot walk in them, do not wear them (because it will be a disaster).

i don't own anything from her line (chanel yes indeed...) – yet – but tried on and wavered countless times in browns, and not only are they flawless, but sincerely comfortable. it's never the heel, it's the shape of the shoe, i say.

and without further ado – a couple of my favorite versions of her perfect boot, from browns